Treatment guide

Dermal fillers in London

Dermal fillers in London, editorial image
In short

What is a dermal filler and how does it work?

A dermal filler is a gel, usually cross-linked hyaluronic acid, injected to restore volume, rebuild structural support or refine a contour. It works by occupying space and attracting water. Most are reversible with an enzyme. In the UK they are regulated as medical devices rather than as medicines.

ClassificationMedical device. No prescription required in the UK
MaterialCross-linked hyaluronic acid in almost all cosmetic use
AreasTemples, cheeks, tear troughs, nose, chin, jaw, folds, lips, hands
ResultImmediate, with swelling settling over one to two weeks
DurationRoughly six to eighteen months depending on product, site and movement
ReversalHyaluronidase, which is itself a prescription-only medicine
Serious riskVascular occlusion, including rare visual loss in high-risk areas

Rheology: why one filler is not another

Manufacturers vary three things when they design a gel: how heavily the hyaluronic acid is cross-linked, the size and uniformity of the particles, and the concentration. The result is a family of products with genuinely different physical behaviour.

Firm, cohesive gels
Resist deformation and hold projection against the weight of tissue above. Used deep, on bone, for structural work at the cheekbone, chin and jaw.
Medium gels
A compromise between support and flexibility. Used in the mid-face and along folds.
Soft, spreadable gels
Integrate into tissue and move with it. Used in mobile areas such as lips and for fine superficial work.
Very light, non-volumising gels
Designed to hydrate and improve skin quality rather than to add shape. A different category of treatment.

Placing the wrong gel in the wrong plane is the mechanism behind most poor results. A firm product placed superficially reads as a ridge or casts a grey shadow through thin skin. A soft product placed deep where support was needed simply disappears.

The question worth asking is not which brand, but which plane, and why that product for that plane.

Anatomy plans the treatment, not the mirror

The face does not age by the skin loosening alone. Fat compartments deflate and slide downward, the bone of the eye socket and jaw resorbs, and the ligaments tethering soft tissue give way. The visible result appears lower down than the cause.

So the fold beside your mouth is frequently a cheek problem, the shadow under your eye is frequently a mid-face problem, and the softness along your jaw is frequently a chin problem. A practitioner who treats only the spot you pointed at will produce a heavier face rather than a refreshed one.

What a structural plan tends to prioritise

  • Support before volume: rebuild the platform, then decide whether anything else is needed.
  • Small quantities in several places rather than a large quantity in one.
  • Assessment in movement and in natural light, not only straight on under a bright lamp.
  • A staged approach across more than one appointment for anything substantial.
  • A willingness to say that the concern is skin laxity, which filler does not treat.

Regulation, and the gap it leaves

In the UK, dermal fillers are regulated as medical devices. There is no prescription requirement and, at the time of writing, no general licence needed to inject them. A person with no clinical training can lawfully buy filler and inject your face. Legislation enabling a licensing scheme for non-surgical cosmetic procedures in England exists but has not been brought into force.

In London there is one additional layer worth knowing about. Most London boroughs licence premises offering certain treatments under local special treatment provisions, which sets standards for the premises rather than for the clinical judgement of the person working in it. It is worth asking whether the premises holds a licence, and it is not a substitute for checking the individual.

Hyaluronidase is the question that separates the market

Hyaluronidase dissolves hyaluronic acid filler and is the emergency treatment when a blood vessel is compromised. It is a prescription-only medicine, so a practitioner without prescribing rights cannot lawfully hold it. Ask whether it is on the premises today, who prescribed it and who would administer it. There is no acceptable answer involving tomorrow morning.

Vascular occlusion, explained properly

This is the complication that justifies every check in this guide. If filler enters an artery, or compresses one, the blood supply to the tissue that artery feeds is interrupted.

What it looks like

  • Pain that is severe or increasing, and out of proportion to the treatment.
  • Skin turning white immediately, then developing a dusky, blotchy or lace-like pattern over the following hours.
  • The area feeling cool to the touch.
  • Later, blistering or skin breakdown if untreated.

Managed promptly with hyaluronidase, it usually resolves without lasting damage. Left alone, it can cause skin death and permanent scarring.

The rare and serious version

Filler forced backwards through vessels connected to the eye can cause sudden visual loss. The highest-risk sites are the glabella between the brows, the nose and the tear trough. Any vision change after facial filler is an emergency and needs immediate medical attention as well as contact with the practitioner.

This is why nose reshaping with filler deserves particular thought. It is frequently marketed as a lunchtime procedure. It is the highest-risk site on the face.

Other risks

Swelling and bruising
Expected. Peaks at around forty eight hours and settles over one to two weeks.
Palpable lumps
Common in the first fortnight and usually normal. Persistent nodules need assessment.
Delayed inflammatory nodules
Firm swellings appearing weeks or months later, sometimes triggered by an illness or dental work. Managed medically, not with more filler.
The grey-blue line
Superficially placed hyaluronic acid scatters light. Most visible under the eyes. Correctable with hyaluronidase.
Migration
Product moving beyond where it was placed, most recognisable above the lip border.
Overfilling
Not a complication so much as an accumulation of decisions. The result of chasing laxity with volume over several years.
Common questions

How long does dermal filler last?

Roughly six to eighteen months for hyaluronic acid, depending on the product, the site and how much the area moves. Static areas such as the cheek last longest.

Can it be dissolved?

Hyaluronic acid filler can be dissolved with hyaluronidase. This is a strong reason to choose a hyaluronic acid product and a practitioner who can prescribe.

Is nose filler safe?

It carries the highest vascular risk of any common filler site, including the rare risk of visual loss. It should be treated as a serious intervention rather than a quick appointment.

How much filler will I need?

There is no answer before an assessment. Any figure quoted before someone has examined your face is a sales estimate.

Does filler stretch the skin?

Sensible volumes replacing lost structure do not. Repeated overfilling beyond what the tissue originally held is a different matter.

What are the warning signs afterwards?

Severe or increasing pain, blanching then mottling of the skin, coolness, or any change in vision. Contact the practitioner immediately and seek urgent care for vision changes.

Can filler treat sagging skin?

No. Filler supports and replaces volume. Significant laxity is a different problem and needs a different conversation, sometimes a surgical one.

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